Tips on Acrylic Disk Handling and Fabrication

●Easily remove the disks’ protective films by starting from the edges. Carefully pick at the edges with your fingernails or a tweezer and then carefully and gradually peel off the protective film.

●To avoid damaging the disk’s surface, only remove the protective films after drilling or cutting the disks.

●Standard drill bits can cause the disk’s surface to crack or the drill bits to break. You can use drill bits specifically made for drilling into plastic, diamond-dusted drill bits, or modified metal drill bits (re-grounded bits that scrape instead of gouging the surface).

●Adjust the drill speed. The faster the drill bit rotates, the hotter it gets, melting the acrylic as it goes. Drill at slow speeds, use lubricants or water to cool down the bit. You’ll still need to retract the drill once or twice to let it cool down by itself before proceeding.

●Though a machine can cut or engrave on acrylic sheets, they can only handle acrylic that is less than 3/32-inch (2.4mm) thick.

●These disks are made from cast acrylic so their edges aren’t flame-polished, but there will be little to no burrs after laser-cutting.

●Laser engraving these disks will result in a matte white finish.

●Acrylic paint works best on these disks.