One sip, you're in. Another seductive Black Label - its 63rd vintage - and it's a wow. Excellent vintage conditions have no doubt helped, but this Australian icon doesn't need a lot of assistance outside its trio of long-time 'curators': Sue Hodder, Allen Jenkins and Sarah Pidgeon. Masses of blackberry fruits, a touch of black olive savouriness, stewed rhubarb, violets. Casts a wide net across the palate with sustained black fruits and spice, but also notes of coffee grounds, bay leaf and vanilla. Oak enhances, yet keeps itself in the background. 96 Points Jeni Port, The Halliday Wine Companion